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Day 10–Llanberis-Dinorwic Quarry—Caernarfon Castle-Llanberis

Ah, it’s good to be back home in North Wales. Woke up pretty late this morning courtesy of the very useful blackout drapes at the cottage we rented in Llanberis. This place is actually pretty awesome. With three bedrooms, each annoying teen has their own room and is much less prone to annoy each other because it would take too much effort to open the door and walk into the others room. For this level of laziness, we are thankful.

As per usual, the fantastic Mrs. Koog made breakfast for us slugs. Eggs, crumpets and rashers. Still no glazed organ meat since London, though. (Thank God!) Both boys were up and ready roll after breakfast was done.

We headed out to Dinorwic Quarry to do some exploration in the old mines and use this as sort of a test run for the Yr Wyddfa (Mt. Snowdon) hike tomorrow. In order to minimize the risk of totaling the car, Mrs. Koog has been doing most of the driving on the 6 inch wide curvy mountain roads. Remember, I drove through a whole ass hedge the last time I drove in these parts and wracked up £8,500 of damage to a brand new car with 4 miles logged on it.

She drove us safely without injury to humans or hedges to the Dinorwic lot. B and I were testing the weight loads in our bags so we got those strapped to our backs and off we went to make some memories and photos.

After the first half mile, we encountered a Welsh Mountain Goat roaming and cavorting with other hikers on the path. OMG, I really need one of those for our yard. I think our 135lb Great Dane and a Welsh Mountain Goat would be an amazing pet duo. Anyway, as we approached the gate to get onto the trail, we encountered about 10 more of these giant horned goats.

Because I watch far too much YouTube, I happened to come across a few videos where these guys chased and rammed hikers with their beastly horns. Suffice it to say, I was not super jazzed to go down the trail that went through this herd. The other 3 members of Family Koog, the ones that did not see said video, continued through the goats and nothing happened.

I was not there to witness this non-event because I left to hike on my own in the opposite direction. There is something beautiful about the spoils of slate mining. Maybe it’s how nature reclaims the land? Among all this scrap stone there are beautiful tufts of purple heather and other wild flowers growing through the cracks and crevasses of the scattered slabs of slate. It’s just really beautiful how the colors of the flowers soften the hardness of the flat gray stones.

Anyway, I had stopped to talk to take a few photos and an older couple decided I was someone they wanted talk with about their journeys. Now, I really, really, really try to look down and appear either aloof or unapproachable since I don’t really enjoy talking to strangers (or people in general). This Welsh couple did not notice my lack of eye contact as they came down the trail apparently because they just immediately raw dogged a conversation with me, no warning or anything.

They gave me their life story. She was a teacher and he was a plumber. They have a camper van. They are members of the caravan and camping club of Wales. They have no kids or pets. When not in their camper van, they live in the Black Mountains of the Brecon Beacons. Oh, and they have been retired since 2025.

It was a lot and, while they were lovely, I was happy that I was on my own after the energy it took to converse. Just as I started my silent hike, I heard the sounds of giant horse hooves clacking up the hill. It was a very familiar clacking as it was E-Koog. “Brah, we are coming this way with you.” No more silence for the Koog. Trying to feign annoyance, I was secretly happy to have us all on the trail together. Plus, if there is another social interaction I will have Mrs. K, our social butterfly, engage and I will Irish goodbye myself away.

We continued for a few more miles and then decided to head back because E-Koog and I were hangry and it was best for everyone if the hanger is handled quickly. On the way back down, Mrs. K, E and B decided to go off trail and into the mine. I was not having this at all. Annoyed that they were engaging in danger, I was hiked back to the gate. I told them when they get stuck in the mine, I will come back for them…probably.

Having some time to myself, I decided to conquer the goats. I had a blast with these things. They came up to me and I patted their heads and scratched between their horns. After I did this with one, there was sort of a line waiting for their attention. I took several photos of them standing on slate house ruins, sleeping in the gate turnabout and just hanging out in the heather. Seriously, I was in love with this little dudes.

Reuniting near the goats, we headed down the last part of the hill to the car. Now we were on our way to Caernarfon to eat and see the castle. It was only about 20 mins down the 12 inch wide bi-directional rode. The Mrs. got us there safe and sound for lunch. Today we ate at one of the oldest pubs in Wales, Yr Bachen Du or They Black Boy.

Now, the teen Koogs were highly offended by the name. I don’t know the origin but I do know it has been Yr Bachen Du since the 1500’s. This did noting to stem their annoyance. We ordered 3 meat pies and 1 fish and chips. It was pretty good although nothing like the food at The Mousetrap Inn. We were all so hungry from the hike, we would have eaten nearly anything.

After filling up, we headed to Caernarfon Castle. This is where King Charles became the official Prince of Wales (as seen on The Queen) and gave his speech in Welsh. To be clear, he is not a born Welshman. Since the Edward I ‘s army killed Owain Glyndor at Caernarfon, there has not been a native Welsh prince. This fact is glossed over in many history books. You are welcome for your small lecture on Welsh history.

We climbed many circular stairs with rope bannisters to get to the top of all the towers of the castle. It’s one of the best preserved Edward I castles in Wales but does lack the a bit of the ruin-y charm of Conwy in my opinion. It’s a little too restored maybe.

Now, we were hot and hungry again. We were all excited for hufen ia or as it’s known in English, ice cream. Mrs. K and E got scoops from one shop while B and I headed to a different store with our favorite, Honeycomb. As the scoop lady was handing us our cones, the Mrs. came into the shop pretty annoyed. Apparently, on her way between stores a sea gull swooped down and stole the cone *out of her hand!*

No worries, I immediately replaced it with a new cone from this ice cream shop. I did endlessly mock her about the incident, though. Protecting our cones, we headed to the car and then to Tesco to grab some food. We are all sick of eating out so now that we have a gorgeous and well stocked kitchen, we are going to cook in it!

Groceries bought and loaded into the car, we headed back to the cottage in Llanberis. We are doing another set of short practice hikes tomorrow and will hopefully end on Anglesey at a small island called Llandwin Island. It’s named for the Welsh St Dwinwyn, sort of the Welsh St. Valentine. Parts of her original church from the 1400’s are still standing.

Until tomorrow…


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